Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Cadiz, Spain

Cadiz

After leaving Seville it was an hour and 40 minutes train ride to Cadiz, the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe.  This city is on the end of a narrow peninsula and it is a joy to see ocean out the windows of both sides of the train. Arriving at the end of the line, the Santa Justa station, we walk out into very bright sunlight. I see palm trees and a large white building. .which turns out to be a cruise ship.  Amazing what humans can build,  so strong and massive.


 We pick up a map at the info station a few blocks ahead and after checking in at the Patagonia hotel we discover another strong, massive accomplishment of mankind... the sea wall built to protect the city from invasion  - of which there had been many - Carthaginians,  Romans, Dutch,  and two Punic wars.

We walked the massive sea walls which are great to lean on and look over mesmerized by the pounding waves or, like the locals, fish for dinner.





One of the coolest things to check out is "The Bishop's House" (Casa del Obisbo). It is an important archeological dig with the different cultures stacked on top of each other.

Originally it was a Phoenician "healing hut" the location chosen for its healing powers and spring waters. Then it became a place with  healing baths, the ill were encouraged to dream of Apollo's healing cures, Eventually the baths were filled in because the Christians believed bathing was too tempting.

It gives you a sense of vertigo, because you are walking on a glass floor looking down into the dig.. The deepest pillar is identified by its construction process.

One of my favorite places to discover is the Ruins of Fort Santa Catalina. Right now it houses a wonderful little exhibit of poetry and fantastic artwork on the inter-connectedness and fragility of our ecosystems. There was no signature and the artists' names were not provided, sorry for the lack of attribution.







Cadiz also offers a wonderful place to stroll and admire gardens and topiaries in wonderful Park Genoves.

And going to the beach is always a good thing (accidentally saw a little topless action. Not posting any pix)






There's lots more to see, but leaving Cadiz we stopped in the Town Hall Plaza that night and enjoyed an adios from the historic Adalucian music and fountain's dance. Here's the Town Hall (Plaza de San Juan de Dios.)







Monday, April 28, 2014

Plaza de Hispana and Parque de Maria Luisa

Sorry folks, but pix will come later...
Remember, we're reading bottom (oldest) up, not top (newest) down.

It was well worth another #3 bus trip back into the old town to walk through Parque de Maria Louisa to see the expansive Plaza de Hispana.

 Spain is big on gardens and I suspect this is partly the influence of the Moors - who  also brought the "paradisios" (walled gardens) concept that fill the welcoming patios of homes with flowers and trees, ponds and colorful  tile work.  Here are a couple of paradisios.










 Imagine walking along street-wide paths lined with heavily laden orange trees. The trees are so aromatic you become thirsty. Occasionally the path is shared by horse drawn carriages... horses with high-arched necks and show-worthy gaits.  You spot a pond with attractive ducks and notice the  arbors  covered in violet bougainvillea.  Just then a flock of white doves fly across the pond and swoop up into the branches of a tree that looks like a huge magnolia tree, but it has, instead of a trunk, multiple tremendous bulbous roots. You rest on a bench covered in blue and yellow tiles, the most beautiful you have ever seen,  to feed the ducks (and golden fish) the crust of the pizza you saved for this very purpose.  To spread your happiness around, you share the crust with the beautiful little girl next to you, who smiles up at you and says, "gracias!"
Preparing to continue your stroll, you take out your souvenir fan because this is Spain and it is hot.

It is just a few steps and you come upon a spectacular view,  the Plaza de Espania, which is in a semicircular layout. Tourists and locals have brought their kids here to be treated to ice cream, four-wheeled bike rentals and generally to run around the huge tiled expanse, which includes a circular river (where you can rent row boats)  and a bridge of blue tiles.

Eventually you come to the grand steps but first admire the history of Spain depicted in, you guessed it, gorgeous tile work.  Climb the tiled steps for the view and witness tall walls of gold and irredescent and intricate tile patterns. Take pictures, hoping they can capture the beauty.













Saturday, April 26, 2014

Seville: The Alcazar and Flamenco

My first impression of Seville was a poor one because the  Hilton Hotel was new but built in a previously industrial area with lots of closed businesses. We learned to walk to the bus stop and catch the #3...which we did many times.

Catch bus #3 here



The #3 runs up and back on Avenida de Constitution, parallel with the Guadelquiver River. Taking the tourist boat cruise was relaxing and educational. I recommend it for 15 Euro ($20).


A great bus stop landmark for us is right in front of the Plaza del Toros (the bullring. ..which I'd never attend).


Seville is a walking around city, so wear your most comfortable shoes. Mine were retired last year after 26 years... but I now have a new pair of Clarks - British walking shoes - the best!)
Head for the Alcazar and spend time wandering.

The old Jewish area is called the Barrios de Santa Cruz and has all the shops and tapas restaurants..



Wandering...





 Wandering..






What's this? That's the Giraldo tower and it is attached to the massive and ornate Cathedral (barely seen above the trees.) It is also right across from the Alcazar entrance. We walked the spiral path up to the top of Giraldo tower. I nearly died.



Yep, we found the Cathedral


Check out the detail...
The Cathedral and Giraldo Tower


And on our right, we found the line in to see the Alcazar



Plumbing and irrigation were built into the structure








The gardens... I've not done them justice, but picture the ladies of this Islamic Palace having this space to wander and contemplate.










Wandering in the Barrios de Santa Cruz is where we found a great place to see the amazing art of Flamenco.
It's called "Casa de Guittara" (Gene saw all the guitars and stopped in his tracks.)
















I can't describe the beauty of the performance...I cried. The guitar player was so talented, the older famous singer's (Pepe Leon) talent so apparent,  and the lady dancer was like watching a play (her expressions! ) Her hands were graceful as a ballerina,  by contrast, when she lifted her skirts and stomped rhythmically in time to the clapping,  the 'tweens in the audience dropped their jaws. The  little kids were mesmerized. I thought, "how great are these parents to expose their kids to this awesome tradition."